To study the history of architecture in the Western Hemisphere one can find no better concentration of historic structures than La Habana Vieja (Old Havana). Founded in 1515, Old Havana never fails to impress its visitors with its rich history and incomparable New World grandeur. One of the earliest urban centres established by Europeans in the Western Hemisphere, this part of Havana is a lovingly restored monument to the city’s glorious past.

The legacy of the Spanish Conquistadors who built the original city is a wonderful mix of colonial homes, charming plazas, museums and other places of historic interest. Today, some of Old Havana’s historic structures house a variety of bars featuring live entertainment. Many others serve as art galleries, hotels, libraries, offices, shops, cafés and restaurants offering traditional Cuban fare and international cuisine.

Queen of the New World

Known to the Conquistadors as 'Queen of the New World', Old Havana is a remnant from Cuba's colonial era – a jewel of Spanish colonial architecture. UNESCO has declared this 4 sq km (2.5 sq. mile) area of narrow streets, secluded squares, impressive fortresses, centuries-old churches and ancient palaces as a World Heritage Site. On a continual basis, its 907 colonial palaces and over 100 other monuments are being gradually restored. Travellers can easily see that this venerable part of the city is being returned to its once renowned architectural splendour.

Today, Havana has greatly expanded beyond its historic sector. A city of 2.5 million, it is the largest urban centre in the Caribbean and home to one quarter of Cuba's more than 11 million inhabitants. Yet, what comes to mind when one thinks of Havana, is its timeworn original heart now throbbing with tourists and new life. To fully experience Old Havana in all its glory one must take a stroll through it.

Plaza de San Francisco de Asis

We began our walking tour at the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, named after the bordering church and convent. This edifice, which was constructed 1738, is one of the most important historic sites in Havana. An 11 km (6.8 miles) long hand-dug connecting aqueduct – partially uncovered for tourists to view it – once transported fresh water for the church and ships docked in the nearby port. The aqueduct ends at the Fuente de los Leones in the centre of the square. Decorated with four lions, it is an exact copy of the Lions’ Fountain in Granada’s Alhambra in Spain.

Opposite the church stands the impressive former stock market building. Bordering the square on its third side is the impressive Cruise Terminal and on its forth side are 17th and 18th century houses, now all fully restored. Some travellers consider this plaza, usually filled with tourists, as the most beautiful in Havana.

After passing two ladies with flower baskets selling tourists kisses on the cheek for one dollar apiece, we turned off the square to walk up the narrow Calle Teniente Rey, which is lined with renovated period structures. “Oh! This reminds me of Spain!” an English woman passing me remarked. Apparently she did not know that Havana was once the Caribbean homeport of the Spanish fleet and one of the most important Spanish possessions in the New World.

Plaza Vieja

A few minutes of walking brought us to Plaza Vieja, impressive in its historic mansions surrounding the square on all four sides. With the exception of two structures, all of them have been tastefully restored. Without a doubt, they are even more attractive today than they were when newly built in the 18th century. This plaza is unique in that, unlike in any other city, no religious edifice or important government building overlooks the square.

From Plaza Vieja, we walked along another narrow street with even more renovated historic homes, all featuring eye-catching Spanish colonial architecture. It appeared to me that Old Havana was being regenerated – a 16th century town living in the 21st century.

Plaza de Armas

After a five-minute walk, we reached Plaza de Armas –Havana’s oldest and most important square. It is lined on all sides by plants, marble benches and the period gas lamps that illuminate the square. The plaza also features lots of second-hand books for sale. By day and night, the square attracts hosts of people, many of them drawn there by its many popular restaurants and bars.

The Plaza is also bordered by important historical structures. Across from the Baroque-styled Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, now housing the City Museum exhibiting antique furniture, stands El Templete, so named because it resembles a temple. In 1599, the city of Havana was founded on this very spot. Beside El Templete flourishes a ceiba tree, once considered sacred by Cuba’s aboriginal people. Next-door is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. La Giraldilla, the symbol of Havana, caps one of its towers.

Plaza de la Cathedral

Leaving Plaza de Armas, we walked to the Plaza de la Cathedral (Cathedral Square) – a very important tourist stop. The square, one of the most authentic and best preserved in Havana, is a charming and monumental place. It has been called the soul of Havana. The Cathedral has one of the most beautiful baroque façades in all of Latin America and is Havana’s historic site par excellence.

The plaza is also bordered by the Museo de Arte Colonial housed in an old mansion, and opposite the cathedral the historic Casa de los Condes de San Fernando de Peñalver. The square is always filled with tourists, many dining at the El Margues restaurant or shopping at the next-door handicraft market.

We ended our tour at Central Park on the edge of the first major expansion of the original city centre. We rested in this oasis of greenery then explored the nearby impressive Gran Teatro de la Habana and El Capitolio, a replica of the US Capital in Washington that was built in the 1920s when Cuba was almost totally under American influence.

An Historic Legacy

As I sat in the park to rest I thought about our half-day walking tour of Old Havana. It had been a fulfilling experience, exploring the structures of grandeur from days of yore, especially those that have been so beautifully restored.

What impressed me this time in Havana were not only the restored structures but also the virtual absence of the tenacious sidewalk vendors, small-time thieves, beggars and pestering children, which only a few years ago were everywhere in the streets of the old city.

The people appeared to be generally better off and the authorities have cleared the streets of those once aggravating annoyances. I came away with an impression that today’s Cuba now protects and celebrates its rich historic legacy – a legacy that visitors from the four corners of the globe can now readily explore and enjoy.

Some Facts About Today's Cuba:

Cuba has become much more expensive for tourists than in the past. It is best to take an all-inclusive package offered by most hotels.

Taxis are the best way for getting around Havana. Renting a car is expensive – around 60 CUC and up per day – and gas is around 1 CUC a litre.

In spite of the shortages, all of Cuba is still safe. Thefts are rare and tap water is drinkable, even in the villages.

The best buys in Cuba are rum and cigars. Beware of black market cigars – often they are not authentic. Seven-year old Havana Club is the finest Cuban rum. It is smoother than brandy and sells at around 10 CUC a bottle. In Havana, the best place to buy Cuban souvenirs is at Handicraft Markets like the one near Plaza de la Catedral.

Cubans are appreciative of gifts, especially soap, English-Spanish dictionaries and all types of clothing – new and used.

For Americans wishing to travel to Cuba through Canada, only a valid passport is needed. Passports are not stamped. US citizens should not use their credit cards in Cuba. Also, the US dollar has a 10% surcharge when exchanged.

Remember to keep 25 CUC for the departure tax.

Currency:

Visitors to Cuba must use Cuban convertible pesos (CUC – at present 1 CUC = $1.30 Canadian. The regular Cuban peso, which can only be used by tourists to purchase such products as fruit and vegetables, converts at about 25 pesos to 1 CUC. For Cuban currency information, click here.

Local Cuisine:

The food served most ordinary Cuban restaurants is quite bland. An average meal for tourists costs about 15 CUC. Visitors should try the main Cuban dish, Rice and Black Beans – very tasty when spices are added.

Entertainment:

Havana's most renowned nightspot La Tropicana is built in a grotto of royal palms. It features a spectacular extravaganza of lavish scenery, dancing and sumptuous costumes and costs 65, 75 or 85 CUC, depending on the seat. However, there are other cabarets like the Parisian at the Nacional Hotel that costs about half the price of El Tropicana.

Some of the Other Sites Worth Seeing in Havana:

The Malacón – the city’s 7km (4.2 mi) seafront promenade used by inhabitants and tourists alike, especially for cooling off and relaxing during the hot summer months.

Castillo del Morro and Castillo de la Punta – two Spanish forts that originally guarded Havana Bay.

Museum of the Revolution – Housed in the former Presidential Palace, it outlines in minute detail Cuba's historic revolution.

Plaza de la Revolution – Cuba’s political headquarters are located on this square used for large rallies.

Cementerio Cristóbal Colón – A cemetery known for the beauty and magnificence of its crypts.

Note: All the prices quoted in this article are in CUC pesos.

For More Info:

Cuba Tourist Board (Toronto)
55 Queen St. E., Suite 705
Toronto, ON M5C 1R5
Tel.: (416) 362-0700
Fax: (416) 362-6799
Email: cuba.tbtor@sympatico.ca
Website: http://www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp

Cuba Tourist Board (Montreal)
2075, rue University, Bureau 460
Montréal, QC H3A 2L1
Tel.: (514) 875-8004
Fax: (514) 875-8006
Email: montreal@gocuba.ca
Website: www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp

Embassy of Cuba
388 Main Street
Ottawa, ON K1S 1E3
Tel.: 613-563-0141
Fax: 613-563-0068
Email: cuba@embacuba.ca
Website: www.embacuba.ca

Cubana Airlines (Montreal)
620, rue St-Jacques, Bureau 10
Montréal, QC H3C 1C7
Tel.: (514) 871-1222
E-mail: ventas@qc.aira.com
Website: http://www.cubana.cu

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Published in the Spring 2006 Issue of Canadian World Traveller (http://www.canadianworldtraveller.com/) and with the permission of the publication.
Text & Photos: Habeeb Salloum (habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca)
Additional Photos: Courtesy of Cuba Tourism Board www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp