The smile on my face lingered just like the hot and humid night. This was already day five of our 12-day tour of Malaysia. The time was speeding by, but I relaxed with the knowledge that there were seven more days ahead of us to explore this fascinating country. Right now, a fantastic show was about to unfold before our eyes.
Colours of Malaysia
We were in Putrajaya to view the Colours of Malaysia parade. The audience of the sold-out performance included the president of Malaysia. Cameras were set to record and broadcast this annual show nationwide. The show would feature many of the ethnic groups that make up the population of Malaysia, including the Malays, Chinese, East Indians and several of the native tribes of Borneo.
As the cameras roll, spectacular sights and sounds fill the stage, as one group of singers and dancers follows the other. The show is as good as any Hollywood musical and even better than any opening ceremonies of the Olympics, because I am here, watching it live.
The two-hour-long parade is followed by a huge, loud firework display that illuminates the night sky and continues even as we make our way back to the van that would take us back to our hotel.
Putrajaya Sojourn
Our stay at the Putrajaya Marriott (www.marriottputrajaya.com) was nothing short of extraordinary. This newly built property is located in Putrajaya, 30 minutes south of Kuala Lumpur, which is referred to as KL by locals and foreigners alike. Nearby suburban Putrajaya offers large tracts of undeveloped land for new projects like the Marriott.
The hotel was very impressive, with elaborate fountains in a well-manicured rain forest setting. The huge reception hall seemed to go on forever. If that were not enough, semi-circular stairways led to the private gardens and an ocean-sized swimming pool, two stories below.
Of course, all of this was all clad in marble, as were the bathrooms of our large and richly furnished rooms. The best feature was the view of the tropical rain forest, especially bathed in the morning light.
A Diverse City
Kuala Lumpur (KL), the capital of Malaysia is extremely diverse. To my delight we were able to visit three different religious holy places in the same day and all within walking distance of each other.
Our guide led us to the Anglican church of St. Mary the Virgin, constructed in the late 1890's by the British; the Masjid Jamek mosque built in 1907, where visitors are given robes to cover any exposed parts of their bodies; and the 140-year-old Sze Ya Chinese temple, where I managed to stay long enough to have the smell of the burning incense lingering in my clothes.
A Spicy Meal
To complement our day of ethnic exploration, we had a lunch at an Indian restaurant. We were given the air-conditioned room in the back of the restaurant, while the mostly local Indian clientele sat at the front of the restaurant, seemingly untroubled by the heat.
The dishes we ordered arrived on aluminium plates that we would have to share. I noticed over the coming days that this was a typically Malaysian thing, unlike at home where people ordered their own individual dishes. The food was hot and spicy and ever so tasty and our group had no problem in devouring it all!
Chinatown
To burn off this meal, we spent some time shopping in Chinatown's Petaling Street night market. We ended our day here, as we shopped for that almost-looks-like-the-real-designer-stuff. Adding to the hustle and noise of the tightly placed stalls, was the ever-present heat, humidity and pungent smells. This was as it should be in any street market and it was perfect!
Sightseeing in KL
Over the coming days we would be treated to visiting the best sights in KL including the Royal Palace, Merdeka Square, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the Petronas Towers, the KL Tower, the Eye on Malaysia and the impressive Batu Caves.
Travelling from sight to sight, we were both amazed and terrified by the ever-present scooters that dodged through traffic. Like daredevils in a circus act, these two-wheeled motorists never failed to entertain us as they zigzagged in and out between cars, trucks and buses, ignoring speed limits and the basic rules of the road.
The most incredible sight was a when a family of four, including their two young children, rode in the same fashion through dangerous traffic. The parents were wearing crash helmets, but the children, barely hanging on to the scooter, were enjoying the thrill of the wild ride, as the wind blew through their uncovered hair.
Petronas Towers
A visit to the Petronas towers was a great occasion to ascend the tallest twin towers in the world. Although the towers are impressive from a distance, it is nothing compared to being right in front and just below these giants.
The first thing that I noticed was the shiny stainless steel cladding of the buildings. The main entrance is equally impressive. First-time visitors look up in awe at the illuminated exotic Islamic design of its high ceilings.
Getting up to the viewing bridge was a well-scripted affair, due to the airport-like security. The high-speed elevator whisked us up to the Skybridge in less than a minute. Because of the number of tourists, our viewing time on the bridge was limited to only ten minutes. However, this short time was truly unforgettable, as we stood on the bridge, suspended between the two remarkable shiny towers, with a panoramic view of all of KL.
Batu Caves
Our visit to the Batu Caves was just another testament to the ethnic diversity that is found in Malaysia. This Hindu shrine thrives in a predominately Muslim state and is a lesson to other countries on how different cultures and religions can co-exist with respect for each another.
The Caves are a sacred place for Malaysia's Hindus. They consist of three main caves and a number of smaller ones. A 42.7m high statue of Lord Murugan is clearly visible from far away but dwarfs the visitor at the entrance to the caves.
You have to climb 272 steps, which lead you to the religious parts of the Caves. As luck would have it, we were able to witness a baptism-like ceremony of a Hindu baby during our visit.
To my surprise, the priest and family members welcomed us to take pictures and video clips of the ceremony.
Our other hosts of the day were the many monkeys that live in the surrounding caves. However, they were more interested in our handbags. On two occasions they stole people's personnel belongings and ran to higher ground to rummage through them for food.
Pewter Art
We made a short visit to the Royal Selangor museum and factory (www.royalselangor.com). I was fascinated by the museum's many pieces of art fashioned out of pewter.
Our tour also included viewing the manufacture of some of the pieces that are sold worldwide. This company is internationally recognised for its production of fine pewter artifacts.
Kuala Terengganu
Our short flight from Kuala Lumpur touched down at the Kuala Terengganu Airport. Having completed the KL part of our visit and were now embarking on the less traveled and less visited East Coast of Malaysia.
We would spend only one day in Kuala Terengganu (KT) before leaving for our much-anticipated visit to Redang Island on the following day.
Kuala Terengganu was very laid back when compared to KL. People here took there time doing things. A noticeable difference was that most of the women wore headscarves and long traditional dresses that covered all but their feet. This day and the following morning were spent visiting the floating mosque, the Royal Palace, the local market and the State Museum.
Floating Mosque
The famous Tengku Tengah Zaharah floating mosque is located just outside Kuala Terengganu. This was no ordinary mosque, as it combined both modern and traditional architectural design and creates an illusion of being afloat, as it is entirely surrounded by water. One has to walk across a small wooden bridge to get to it.
After our visit of the mosque, we settled into an air-conditioned Malaysian restaurant for a lunch of typical local dishes. Although they very good and quite filling, I was not sure what they all consisted of. I did recognise the fish and the rice dishes, but the rest were a journey into the pleasant unknown.
A trip to the washroom before eating accidentally brought me up to the roof of the restaurant. I had missed the restroom by a floor and was lost, but I was in for a pleasant surprise. In the distance I was able to hear the Islamic call to prayer.
I hadn't heard this call since I was in Egypt, and although I couldn't understand the words that filled the city streets, this moment made the trip that much more exotic. I found the closest bit of shade from the midday sun that was baking the rooftop, closed my eyes and got lost in another world, as the chanting continued. What a treat that was for the senses!
A Local Market
The Pasar Payang local market was split in two, our guide told us. One side was considered the "dry side", where merchants sold fruits, vegetables, spices and locally produced arts and crafts, while the "wet side" was a mystery to me.
I did lots of shopping on the dry side, including fresh spices packed in clear bags that I would give to family members back home. Each bag had four different spices, including cinnamon, anise, cloves and coriander.
These turned out to be the perfect gifts and cost almost nothing. They also made my luggage that much sweeter smelling. The other gifts I purchased included stone necklaces, rings, bracelets and other beautiful locally designed jewellery.
Having finished exploring the dry side I was intrigued to see what could possibly constitute a wet market. Well this city boy found our real quickly that a wet market was a carnivores delight.
There surely was a lot of wet stuff, wet as in chicken, beef, fish, fish and more fresh fish that were probably brought in by boats directly from the sea to the docks at the back of the market.
It seemed I was the only one in my group to discover and photograph the catch of the day and the ever-smiling fishmongers. Too bad cameras can't capture smells! This place was special. Here again was a perfectly exotic moment of the trip.
An Asian Resort
Our overnight stay in KT was spent at the Aryani Resort (www.thearyani.com). The resort reminded you that you were indeed in Asia. My room was a detached one-bedroom building with its own wooden balcony, which featured a private sunken hot tub.
Directly in front, was a small field that rolled down to the sea and had no less than ten cows grazing in it! This was going to make a great photo, I thought to myself, but only after a refreshing dip in the sea. Unfortunately, the cows were gone when I returned.
My short walk to the beach became a quick dash on the hot sand. I made a headlong dive into the water, but to my amazement the water was hot. Just like being in the hot sun and the hot sand, I was now in hot water, South China Sea hot water to be precise. Although not exactly refreshing at first, I did find it relaxing and stayed in the water for over an hour.
I discovered that I had the beach completely to myself, as I looked to both sides and there was not a soul for as far as the eye could see. I owned this part of the world for an hour anyway and loved it!
The Art of Batik
The following day saw us making a last quick stop before heading out to a tropical island. Our shopping lists of souvenirs and gifts were drastically reduced as we visited the Noor Alfa Batik store and factory (www.noor-arfa.com.my).
Batik cotton sarongs are typically Malaysian. They are either machine made or hand painted and can be worn in a multitude of ways or used to decorate furniture.
The ever so patient artists, who paint the cloths and turn them into works of art, fascinated me.
Redang Island
The ship's hands led us to the comfortable air-conditioned sitting area of the boat that would take us to Redang Island. A movie began as I settled into a window seat. But this was too closed in. I wanted to feel the sun, the wind and the occasional sea spray on my face, so I made it up to the deck and had a true cruise-boat experience.
The ninety-minute trip took us past small colourful fishing boats and many small but hilly islands that reminded me of pictures of Vietnam and China. On our arrival at the island I noticed the same colourful boats in the lagoon.
The following three days spent in Redang made me realise what a true tropical paradise is like. Our hotel the Berjaya Redang Beach resort (www.berjayaresorts.com) was in more than one way as far away from home as I had ever been. The hotel was located at the end of the island on a secluded bay.
I was moved by the spectacular cliff-top view. Our rooms were in the newly built part of the resort and although it took the extra effort to walk up, the vista was like ones that I had only seen in travel magazines and brochures.
Tropical Rainstorm
Our hotel guide walked us through the resort, explaining the different activities that we could do. We decided that next day we would go jungle trekking across the mountain to the other side of the island. Unfortunately, that night we witnessed a truly tropical rainstorm.
It happened as we were having supper in the covered terrace when without much warning the skies opened up and it rained like I have never seen before or since. The water came down in buckets for over an hour. Because of this, we were warned not to venture into the jungle, as it would be too muddy and extremely dangerous.
However, we did manage to get ourselves on the wet side of things and went on a snorkelling boat cruise that brought us to the most interesting coral and fish sighting spots. I was delighted by the ever-colourful array of fish that would eat bread out of our hands.
The following morning I woke up before sunrise. A place as beautiful as this should be appreciated at all hours of the day. I made my way to the water and was going to be the first in. Again, not a soul was around and once again I had the sea to myself. Slowly the sun rose over the tall palm trees and the sky changed to infinity of colours.
A Simple Village Life
I rented a motorcycle and ventured out to explore the lesser-travelled areas of the island. It took me less than 15 minutes to cross the island. There, I visited a tiny village where I met some of the friendliest people a person could ever meet.
I was greeted with shy but curious smiles from everyone. In the end, I was humbled by the spirit of these people who though having little in material wealth, had an over abundance of happiness. Their wonderfully simple society felt no need for modern intrusions like the Internet, cell phones and cable television.
Kota Bharu
Our last leg of the trip would find us travelling to the city of Kota Bharu. The city is located in the northeast part of the country and is very close to the Thai border. During the three-hour drive, we were able to see rural Malaysia, including the farms and fishing villages that dotted the lush tropical landscape. This is definitely a less visited part of Malaysia but I found the visit was worth it, as our schedule slowed down drastically and we were able to absorb more of the ordinary people's way of life.
During our two days and nights spent in Kota Bharu, we visited the Istana Batu Royal Museum, the State Museum and the Istana Jahar Museum that were all centrally located and within walking distance of each other.
In the same neighbourhood, we made a stop at the Handicraft Village that found us buying more gifts, which included locally made silver jewellery and traditional art in many forms.
We also visited the night market, which is a place not to be missed. The muddy grounds, resulting from the tropical rainstorm complimented the sights, sounds and smells of the market. It had a mix of vegetable and meat vendors, a multitude of food stalls to fill any appetite, a clothing section, and of course the designer knock-off section.
On our last full day in Malaysia, we visited a Buddhist temple, located only ten kilometres from the Thai border, and to the central market. This market also had a "dry side" and a "wet side". This time, I knew what to expect on the wet side and was not surprised by the large number of vendors dissecting their fresh produce.
Malaysian Memories
As I sat in the plane coming home, I reflected on my trip. I was delighted to have had this great Malaysia experience, but its no easy task describing such a diverse country.
Let's see now. I rode up the tallest twin towers in the world, swam at a secluded beach on the East China Sea, witnessed the Hollywood-style Colours of Malaysia Parade, snorkelled in a tropical paradise and visited a Buddhist temple, a Hindu temple, a mosque and an Anglican church.
Other wonderful experiences included listening to the Muslim call to prayer, shopping in Chinatown, dining on Malay, Indian and Chinese cuisine and much more.
All this and I didn't even have the time to explore to the more popular West Coast or the Island of Borneo. I guess Malaysia just might just be the ultimate country of contrasts. Vive la difference!
For More Info on Malaysia:
Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board
1111 West Georgia Street, Suite 1590
Vancouver, BC V6E 4M3
Tel.: 604-689-8899
Email: mtpb.vancouver@tourism.gov.my
Website: www.malaysiatourism.ca
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Published in the November, 2003 Issue of Canadian World Traveller (http://www.canadianworldtraveller.com/) and with the permission of the publication.
Photos Courtesy of Grenada Board of Tourism www.grenadagrenadines.com
